An Introduction to Alpine Mountaineering with ISM

Last September I went to Switzerland for a week of learning on an ‘introduction to alpine mountaineering’ course… a perfect topic for my next blog, but before I delve into the course and what we covered I’ll start by explaining how I came to be there.

Me scrambling over a rocky ridge in the Swiss Alps!

Browsing social media one afternoon I saw a post about an upcoming event in the Lakes; it was the Arc'teryx Academy - Climb Lake District, a weekend of climbing, scrambling and bouldering clinics based at the National Trust Sticklebarn in Great Langdale, and after having a look through the schedule I decided to book onto one of the skills clinics that was being hosted by Lakes based ISM Guide Adrian Nelhams.

ISM Guide Adrian teaching us some rope work for protecting scrambles at the Arc'teryx Academy weekend

Me and ISM Guide Adrian heading up!

After chatting with Adrian about his work and hearing about ISM (the International School of Mountaineering) I went straight home, switched on my laptop and took a look at the courses ISM provided. After two cancelled trips to Switzerland (thanks Covid) I was keen to book again (third time lucky, right?).

Finding the right course was easy enough, as the ISM website clearly organises courses and packages in to various levels. The Level 1 - Summits & Skills 4000m instructional course stated that it's designed to give the best possible introduction to alpine mountaineering and in addition, a chance to climb a 4000m peak to culminate the week… Perfect!

Established in 1965, ISM is essentially the product of years of dedication from many great mountaineers’ past and present. Founded in Leysin, Switzerland by John Harlin, an American mountaineer who at that time was working at the Leysin American school. John started ISM guiding rock climbing and mountaineering adventures for American clients in his spare time. Sadly, John was killed in a climbing accident establishing a new route called the Harlin Direct on the North face of the Eiger with friends Chris Bonington and American alpinist Leyton Kor.

Well known Scottish climber and mountaineer Dougal Haston picked up the reins after John died, as he was renting from John at that time, living and climbing there. Leysin was a real social climbing hub for any mountaineer visiting the Swiss Alps. British alpinist Pete Boardman then took over the running of the school and started to develop the schools courses and run it more like the school you see today. ISM has traditionally been staffed by the leading climbers of the time rather than professional guides. That was until key european countries such as Austria, France, Germany and Switzeland came together to establish the IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations) the now governing umbrella body for all member countries. The British Mountain Guide Association was then born and over time ISM guides undertook the professional qualifications to become qualified IFMGA British mountain Guides.

There’s something particularly alluring about the history of ISM and the legacy left therein by some of the greatest mountaineers… the characters from my books! I was sold!

Being an introductory course I didn’t need to do any pre course learning, but I did anyway and it was a lot of fun! It also meant that I had some foundation level knowledge that I could then further develop during the course and reduced the amount of ‘new information’ that I would have to retain while I was there.

Learning the basics of tying in and belaying at Kendal climbing wall ahead of my trip!

After a few sessions at Kendal climbing wall I was familiar with tying into a harness and belaying and aside from this I did very little to prepare other than making sure I got plenty of hill days in before the trip.

Squeezing through 'Fat Man's Agony' on Side Pike; keeping up my fitness after covid on a trail run in the hills!

Annoyingly, I managed to catch Covid a few weeks before the trip and although I felt very well in myself, I began to notice some prolonged symptoms. I was quick to become breathless and I was experiencing burning in my legs just climbing the stairs, almost like I just couldn’t get enough oxygen to my body! Typical! Not to be deterred I added in some extra hill days, opting for steeper and longer routes and crammed in as many summits as I could per walk in an attempt to regain some hill fitness before I went away.

The Kentmere horseshoe with my friend Helen! Longer hill day routes in preparation for the Alps!

All the information that I needed to prepare for the course was on the ISM website in their ‘knowledge base’ which meant I didn’t need to keep hassling them with questions in the lead up to the trip; there was everything from travel information to kit lists all in one place and, with a few new additions to my kit, I was ready to go!

Day 0 - Travel to Leysin, Switzerland

After a short flight to Geneva I headed for the train; the transport was easy to navigate via the SBB mobile app. After hopping on the train at the airport I enjoyed a very scenic journey around Lake Geneva to Aigle, where I then switched to the Leysin Tramway with is a small cog railway which took me directly up the mountainside to the pre-alpine mountain village of Leysin!

The cog railway which took us on a scenic journey up the mountainside to Lesyin

We were soon in the picturesque village of Leysin!

Leysin has been ISM's home since 1965, and in that time ISM and the guides have been very much part of the fabric and community in this small mountain village. All of ISM's summer and winter courses and private guiding are based in or start from Leysin.

The Summits & Skills 4000m course started with a Saturday evening briefing at the Tour D'Ai hotel where I got to meet the other group members and our ISM Guide Paolo Intropido for a beer and a brief!

Tour D'Ai - our base while in Leysin

After introductions, Paolo went through the details of the course and what to expect from the week ahead before leaving us to enjoy a traditional Swiss foundue (followed by a few drinks in a nearby bar!)

Our ISM Guide Paolo, explaining what the week will entail

Day 1 – Introduction to rock climbing

On day 1 of our course we were up early for an all you can eat breakfast buffet at the hotel.

After breakfast our Guide Paolo got us set with all the equipment we would require for the duration of the course. ISM course fees are fully inclusive which includes kit hire, so rather than travelling across with a lot of luggage I opted to hire what was available.

After a quick stop at the shop we headed up to the beautiful limestone peaks above Leysin which provided an ideal venue to learn, practise and perfect some basic rope and climbing techniques. The Leyisn Tours give an amazing backdrop to the village and from the Tour D'Ai you get fantastic views down to lake Geneva and across to the main alpine massifs of Mt Blanc, Bernese Oberland and the Monte Rosa chain.

The limestone peaks above Leysin provide an ideal venue to practise and perfect basic rope and climbing techniques

So, starting with the basics, Paolo showed us how to tie in to the end of the rope with a figure of 8 knot which connected the rope to our harness so that we could safely climb and then also how to belay which is a technique to safely take in the rope while a person is climbing, safeguarding that person from any falls (a handy refresher for me thanks to my prior study).

Me climbing a 'very easy' climb... apparently

Paolo then talked us through some skills for effective movement over rock, demonstrating these before coaching us to put these skills into practice.

Me, practicing my foot placements

Much of the day was centred on building confidence in our movements as well as our rope work and it wasn’t long before Paolo had us confidently abseiling off the rocky outcrops!

Me, abseiling down

After a busy day learning we returned to the hotel D'Ai for another night. This time we went into the village to Restaurant la Fromagerie for dinner. Restaurant la Fromagerie is a very charming mountain-style 'chalet' restaurant which serves a traditional Swiss menu.

Dinner at Restaurant la Fromagerie

Cow bells decorating the restaurant

Day 2 – Travel to the Moiry Glacier

On day two we were up early for a drive to the Moiry Glacier, situated in the Pennine Alps in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. The drive was around 2 hours and after passing through the picture perfect village of Grimentz we soon reached the glacial lake. We parked up at the end of the Moiry dam road, this was the start of our hike up to the glacier.

Lac de Moiry

Approaching the Moiry glacier

After a short walk up the valley we soon reached the Moiry glacier proper where Paolo explained we would be spending some time learning the basics of walking with crampons (Flat Footing) and using a mountaineering ice axe. The glacier here is a 'dry' glacier which means it doesn't have any snow on it and is just pure ice. There are no hidden crevasses just great terrain to practice these important skills. The Moiry glacier is also an important glaciological feature which is well documented and observed with its many text book features such as moraine walls, crevasses, seracs, and above the Moiry Hut which is where we're ultimately heading to a 'wet' snow covered glacier high above.

Me on the glacier... wondering if I'm supposed to jump or step over the crevasse

We spent the afternoon moving around the glacier on different angles of ice practicing flat footing both up and down steep slopes and then also front pointing when it became too steep to flat foot. This helped build confidence and most importantly security in our footwork preparing us for steep and more exposed mountain terrain. We also practiced using our ice axes which when the ice slope steepened up it proved invaluable for added security. Then when the slope steepened to where we needed to front point we could swing the pick of our ice axe in the ice and holding onto the shaft of the axe we were able to climb quiet steep ice walls. There was a lot to cover and for added security we also learnt how to take coils and rope up for glacial travel.

Playing follow the leader on various angles of slopes

Me getting a little nervous on the ice

I was a little nervous initially and needed a lot of support and handholding from Paolo (literally) but he soon had me confidently moving around on steep ice and having a lot of fun with it too!

Paolo took me to the steepest ice to teach me to trust my feet!

Paolo soon had me climbing the walls!

After a few hours on the Glacier we continued a short distance up to the Moiry hut where we spent the night. The Moiry hut is a classic alpine hut situated at 2825m and looking down over the Moiry Glacier (now much higher above the Glacier than it once was). The hut is owned by the Swiss Alpine Club, but the guardian of the hut is an ex ISM Mountain Guide called Yvan Duc who used to live in Leysin before moving down the valley and building a house in a nearby village. Yvan gave us a warm welcome when we arrived.

Arriving at the hut

The Moiry hut has stunning panoramic views over the crevassed Glacier, serac-strewn icefall and surrounding peaks.

Taking in the views

It was our first time staying in an alpine hut so Paolo briefed us on hut etiquette and all we needed to know before sending us off to our dorm rooms to freshen up before dinner and an evening session on interpretation of a map and guidebooks to finish the day.

Hut bunks!

Dinner at the hut

Night sky views from the Moiry hut

Day 3 – Pigne de la Le

Up at dawn for another day of learning!

Day three saw an early start to climb Pigne de la Le; from the Moiry hut we hiked up to Col du Pigne before turning south and ascending the Pigne de la Le via the rocky north ridge. Paolo showed us techniques for protecting our scrambling with a rope, using a short roping technique... the same technique I learned from Adrian back in the Lake District!

Paolo explaining the fundamentals of keeping safe on the rocky terrain

Heading up!

It wasn’t long until we reached the summit at 3396m, and from here we had beautiful views in all directions. Looking West Paolo pointed out Mt Blanc and all the high summits in the Mt Blanc massif, and East and almost in touching distance was the Matterhorn and over twenty 4000m summits of the Monte Rosa and Mischabel ranges! the views were incredible and inspiring at the same time.... maybe summits for future adventures?

Taking in the views at the top

After summiting we stayed roped up and dropped down the south-west flank of the mountain and hiked back down onto the Moiry Glacier. Here, we learnt how to make a snow anchor in the wet glacier using our ice axe, which is the corner stone to crevasse rescue. Everything hinges from you making a secure snow or ice anchor to help someone back out of a crevasse if they can't help themselves. Although self rescue is always the best policy as you never know if you partner can find a good enough snow anchor on top, and with this in mind we learnt how to prussik up a rope for this reason. Prussiking skills also help when setting up a system to rescue a person from a crevasse. Having said that, if your roped up for glacial travel correctly and have enough rope between each person and there isn't slack in the rope anyone falling into a crevasse won't go far!

They're wondering why it's taking me so long to put an ice screw in!

We then made a journey over the Glacier using the rope techniques to move together that we had learned the pervious day whilst out on the glacier. Paolo explained various glacial hazards such as crevasses and unstable seracs for us to look out for and navigate around when planning a route across a glacier.

After exiting the glacier we returned to the Moiry hut late afternoon, and with some free time, Paolo took us for a session to play around on the rope with prusik’s before dinner and a second night at the Moiry hut.

I had fun playing around with the prusiks

Back to Moiry hut for night two

Day 4 – Ridge Scrambling

For day four we headed up above the hut for some more ridge scrambling to practice our short roping and moving together techniques.

Our ISM Guide Paolo

Taking in the atmospheric views from the ridge about the hut!

After lunch we descend from the hut along another scenic footpath which led us back to the parking place at the end of the Moiry dam road.

Paolo and I on the walk back to the car

We then packed into Paolo's car for a drive down the Rhone valley to the high mountain village of Saas Grund below Sass Fee, where we met Edith and Daniel Zurbriggen who own Zurbriggen Sports, an outdoor shop in the village. Edith and Daniel have been long term friends of ISM and run some accommodation behind the shop where we stayed the night.

Day 5 – Rock climbing above Saas Grund

Our original plan was to summit a 4000m peak on day 5 however the weather wasn’t great, Paolo told us the following day would be the better option. So instead we took the Hohsaas cable car up above the clouds, for a fantastic day rock climbing and time spent developing our learnt roped skills.

Blue skies and great views once we got above the clouds

Paolo taught me (trusted me) to lead belay and I managed to keep him safe...

It felt higher than it looks...

Cute hut!

After climbing, we stopped off at the Weissmies hut for a drink and chat to the really lovely hut guardian's Roberto and his wife Carlo who, with their two young kids run the hut in both summer and winter; unfortunately, we lost track of time and missed the last ride back down!

Long walk down!

Luckily for us, the weather had improved as the day progressed so we had a very nice walk back down, we spotted some Marmots and was accompanied by the gentle ringing of cow bells as we got closer to the valley.

Beautiful views back down to the valley

I enjoyed our walk snaking back through the houses in the valley

Day 6 – Climbing the Allalinhorn

Day 6 soon came and we were off to the Allalinhorn! After an early breakfast we took the bus up to Saas Fee where we boarded the Alpine Express lift and then the Alpine Metro to access the Fee Gletscher at the foot of the classic Allalinhorn (4027m).

Taking in the views!

The route up the Fee Gletscher and North West flank of the Allalinhorn allowed us to consolidate and practise many of the alpine skills we learned throughout the week. We split up into two teams, and roped up for glacial travel. The front and back person took coils and we counted enough distance of rope between each person so that if anyone did fall into a crevasse then we could safely look after each other. I tied into the middle, crampons on and ice axe at the ready we were set to go!

Heading up to the summit (behind me)

The Allalinhorn was a great first 4000m peak and provided a fantastic vantage point for many other 4000m peaks in the surrounding area including the Matterhorn!

Summit selfie!

Our ISM Guide Paolo at the summit of the Allalinhorn

Heading down!

After a quick photo stop we dropped down and descend the Fee Glacier and return to Saas Fee.

Wandering through Saas Fee

Saas Fee is a beautiful picture perfect alpine village, and a ‘no vehicle village’, adding to its charm and sense of calm. We stopped here in the park for lunch before the long drive back to the Tour D’Ai in Leysin.

Picnic in the park

Post Course R&R

Following the ISM course, and with a few days to spare before flying home, I hung around in Leysin to soak up the scenery and relax!

Hot tub with a view

Lots of cocktails were had in the hot tub!

A few days R&R, staying at the Grand Chalet Hotel (the previous base for ISM) supping cocktails in the balcony hot tub when not out exploring the local area!

ISM (International School of Mountaineering)

Exploring the local trails!

The most beautiful views!

Enjoying the sunshine high above Leysin

Couldn't not get this shot...

Fun!